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30 Oct 2012

Burgundy Part II: And on to The Makeup!


Interpret burgundy however you wish; oxblood, wine, claret, bordeaux, aubergine, eggplant, cranberry, plum, purple, blood, maroon... I'm in lust.

Part I of this Burgundy trend-based mini-series shows some of the burgundy clothes, shoes, accessories that I'm currently loving... this post is all about the makeup... specifically, me raiding my stash to see what I had that is burgundy-ish.  So on we go :-)

Eyes

Cream/Hybrid Eyeshadows

L -> R: (deep breath)... Estée Lauder Cyber Metallic Palette, MAC Metal-X in Ardent, MAC Extra Dimension in Rich Core, MAC Extra Dimension in Round Midnight, Chanel Illusion d'Ombre in Ébloui, MAC Paint Pot in Hyper Violet, Make Up For Ever Aqua Cream #17

The ones I came up with are all eye creams or hybrid cream-powder shades, as follows:
  • Estée Lauder Pure Color Cyber Metallic Palette - the darkest shade, this is a browny aubergine in real life, it's photographing quite brown here (Bronze Sands collection)
  • MAC Metal-X Cream Shadow in Ardent (Gareth Pugh collection) - described as "frosty blackened burgundy", it's appearing quite pinky here however
  • MAC Extra Dimension Eyeshadow in Rich Core (Extra Dimension collection) - described as "dirty aubergine"
  • MAC Extra Dimension Eyeshadow in Round Midnight (Glamour Daze collection) - described as "dark burgundy", there s a very definite plum tone to this in real life which is hard to capture with the camera
  • Chanel Illusion d'Ombre in Ébloui (permanent line) - see here for more info
  • MAC Paint Pot in Hyper Violet (Posh Paradise collection) - described as "deep violet" but is quite a plum shade.  I like it, but like a lot of purple shades, it's hard to build-up adequately without looking patchy.
  • Make Up For Ever Aqua Cream #17 (permanent line) - described as "burgundy plum shimmer", this is essentially the same as the (now sadly discontinued) MAC Paint Pot in Artifact, which I never managed to get my claws on.
Any of these would work brilliantly as a primer underneath other shades to give a burgundy finish.  For example, Hyper Violet, with MAC Cranberry pushed on top.  Or even Hyper Violet with Rich Core layered over it...

Here we go:
Estée Lauder Pure Color Cyber Metallic Palette
MAC Metal-X Shadow in Ardent
MAC Extra Dimension Eyeshadows in Round Midnight & Rich Core
MAC Paint Pot in Hyper Violet
Make Up For Ever Aqua Cream #17,  Chanel Illusion d'Ombre in Ébloui,

My favourite?   Probably the Make Up For Ever Aqua Cream; I love this.  I also love the MAC Extra Dimension Eyeshadows in Round Midnight - speaking of which, notice the size difference between this one and the (much smaller) Rich Core shadow?  Same formulation, much smaller size.  Hmmmm.


Powder Eyeshadows

I have sooooooo many powder eyeshadows that are not strictly burgundy but that could work as a burgundy over a darker (brown or purple-based) primer;  MAC Cranberry, Star Violet, Trax, Signed, Sealed...   A bunch of shadows from various Sleek palettes.  A No7 Metallic Shadow that I can't find right now (part of a palette of four)... some Estée Lauder shades from various palettes... far too many to swatch and photograph.

Laura Mercier Luxe Color Palette from Christmas/Holiday 2011 Collection

The ones I did photograph are part of this palette from Laura Mercier last Christmas (2011)...

The relevant shades: top right (Merlot) & bottom right (Burgundy Wine)

The top six shades are eyeshadows, the bottom three are cake liners (mix with water or an eyeliner mixing medium to get a liquid liner).

Laura Mercier Merlot (eyeshadow), Burgundy Wine (cake liner)

I particularly love the Burgundy Wine cake liner.  Merlot is a sateen eyeshadow and is available individually, the cake liner was LE and only part of this palette.


Eyeliners

Various eyeliners, all burgundy-esqe ;-)
Face2 in Eggplant, Avon Supershock in Plumful, Make Up For Ever in 18L, MAC in Prunella, Make Up For Ever in 4L, Avon Supershock in Blackberry 
Illamasqua Precision Ink in Havoc

I love pencil eyeliner.  It's incredibly versatile.  You can use it on its own as a liner.  You can use it as a primer for your shadow.  You can use it to do a really fast smokey eye; scribble it all over your lid, blend it out, go back in again to tight-line your waterline (above and below) and add some to the top of your lashline.  Two minutes for a quick-n-dirty smokey eye, you can't go wrong!  Here are the results of the Makeup For Dolls jury on the subject of burgundy eyeliners:
  • FACE2 (an Irish brand) Long Lasting Eyeliner in Eggplant
  • Avon Supershock Gel Liner in Plumful
  • Make Up For Ever Aqua Eyes (liner) in 18L/Deep Burgundy Sheen
  • MAC Eye Kohl in Prunella
  • Make Up For Ever Aqua Eyes (liner) in 4L/Soft Plum Sheen
  • Avon Supershock Gel Liner in Blackberry (see here for more on this gorgeous liner)
  • Illamasqua Precision Ink in Havoc (aubergine liquid liner)

Face2 in Eggplant, Avon Supershock in Plumful, Make Up For Ever in 18L, MAC in Prunella, Make Up For Ever in 4L, Avon Supershock in Blackberry, Illamasqua in Havoc

My two favourites, hands down, are the Illamasqua Precision Ink in Havoc (liquid liner) and the Avon Supershock Gel Liner in Blackberry (pencil/gel hybrid) - I believe the latter was LE, but the Illamasqua liner is available from their site.


Mascara

This one was simple - one of my absolute favourite mascaras, the Yves Saint Laurent Faux Cils in #5 (Aubergine), not cheap but a gorgeous mascara.  A burgundy-toned mascara will really make green eyes pop!

YSL Faux Cils #5
YSL Faux Cils #5 - the wand and the swatch
YSL Faux Cils #5 - obligatory arm swatch
Not sure if this has been discontinued or not, but Dr. Hauschka also do a mascara in this colour, as does The Makeup Store and Laura Mercier.  I know that there's a bunch of coloured mascaras available from drugstore brands (like Barry M etc) but I think they're more blue-purple than burgundy.


Lips

Lipsticks

I'm loving the darker, moodier, more gothic lipsticks that are around at the moment.  These are the shades I grew up with!  The ones I've chosen are as follows:
  • MAC Sin (matte) - according to MAC, a "deep dark blue-red"; this is a matte shade and quite a yummy dark purple-toned red.
  • Chanel Rouge Noir (Rouge Allure) - recently reviewed here.  Note that the Chanel Christmas collection this year (2012) is also largely based around a variation of this colour (see here for more information on this collection).
  • NARS Damned (Velvet matte lip pencil) - While I'm not the biggest NARS fan on the planet overall, I adore this formula lipstick.  This shade is described as a "rich magenta", and it's handy to carry around, long-lasting, pigmented and doesn't dry your lips out unduly, which is good for a matte lipstick.  NARS also has shades Toundra and Train Bleu, which are in matte, and Club Mix (a velvet gloss lip pencil) which are other colours that could be considered part of the burgundy family.
  • Dior Addict Ultra Gloss #982/Black Tie Plum (flash) - I love love this lipgloss, it's flashy, iridescent, sparkly but dark and moody at the same time.  My latest love is Chanel Rouge Noir with this layered on top, a clean eye with a flick and a very simple, pale, matte base with lots of contouring. Yum.

MAC Sin, Chanel Rouge Noir, NARS Damned, Dior #982
L -> R: MAC Sin, Chanel Rouge
Noir, NARS Damned, Dior #982
Ben Nye in Vixen


A shout-out must go to Ben Nye's Lip Color in Vixen... I forgot to swatch it, but it is gorgeous stuff, and like all Ben Nye products, inexpensive, pigmented, easy to apply and long lasting.

The fun thing about lipsticks... it's the one thing in makeup that's really easy to frankenstein.  Don't have a burgundy lipstick?  Apply some lipbalm, then a dark brown eye/lipliner all over your lips and blend a dark red on top of this... or use a black or a purple eyeliner with a red lipstick on top... you get the idea!


Lipliners

The lipliners I chose are largely a plum-shade of burgundy, and they're photographing badly (grrr).
  • Lancôme Le Lipstique in Mauvelle - a very red-toned plum-burgundy shade
  • Sleek Twist Up Lip Pencil in #651/Currant - a darker purple-wine-burgundy shade
  • Rimmel Lip Pencil in #063/Black Tulip - somewhere in the middle between the two :-)

Lancôme Le Lipstique Mauvelle, Rimmel #063/Black Tulip, Sleek #651/Currant
Lancôme Le Lipstique Mauvelle, Rimmel #063/Black Tulip, Sleek #651/Currant

As mentioned, these are photographing a little brighter than they are in real life, but the tones are about right.  These are fabulous on their own, or as a nice dark base for a dark blue-red shade.  All are very pigmented (I think the Lancôme one might be discontinued but I'm not 100% certain).

Rimmel lipliners are absolutely brilliant, well recommended despite their very inexpensive price tag, and I know most makeup artists use 'em.  Black Tulip is particularly gorgeous and a shade I use a lot.

Another huge trend for the last few years that deserves a mention is the ombré trend, and it's very easy (and lovely) to create an ombré lip using a dark dark burgundy colour at the outer edges, fading to a blue-toned red in the centre of the lips.  This is best achieved using a darker liner at the edges and bleeding it into a lipstick in the centre.  Have fun with it :-)


Face

Blush

It's hard to get a burgundy blush, no matter what way you look at it, at one end of the spectrum you're looking at a dirtied-brown-toned red... at the other end, a purple shade.  Neither particularly appealing from a wearability perspective.  So I raided my stash to see if I could find something more plum than mauve, more cranberry than brown-red.

What I came up with was MAC Sheertone Blush in Loverush:

MAC Sheertone Loverush

This is described by MAC as "Faded Burgundy", which is pretty spot on.  The swatch above is full-on, but it's a sheertone, which meant I needed to pack it on to get it to show this heavily.  It's a particularly beautiful blusher for darker skins, but can work with a very light hand on lighter skins too (I know, I wear it!)


Nails

Just one in my arsenal that can be considered a burgundy is nails inc. Polish in Victoria:

nails inc. in Victoria

Described by nails inc. as a "deep cherry red shade", this is actually close to a spot-on shade of burgundy for me personally, it's a nice mix of red and cherry and wine and purple.  A touch more of a brown undertone and it'd be perfect (of course, this can be achieved by using a brown undercoat).

Thus endeth the rooting-around-my-stash-to-see-what-burgundies-I-have.  Burgundy, as you can see, really is one of those "subjective" colours, and if you don't have it, can be formed by combining a few different shades; browns and reds, purples and reds, berry shades and browns/blacks... just remember that the reds need to be blue-based, not yellow, pink or orange-based, and you're sorted.  Burgundy, together with olive green and black are the real trend colours for AW12;  luckily, all colours that I love and that work with my colouring.

Just be careful with burgundy close to your eye - if you're using a very red-toned burgundy, you run the risk of looking sick or vampiric (I know it's nearly hallow'een, but still!) - in this case, just make sure that you have delineated the burgundy shade from your eye using a nice crisp black liner, and you're good to go!

In an ideal world, I'll find time to put together some face charts with burgundy looks... maybe I'll look at this as Part III, hopefully next week!

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